swtnate
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Id wire each C separately with the center wired in line.Hi guys , i just got some sonion 2389d . I think it should be wired like that right?
Id wire each C separately with the center wired in line.Hi guys , i just got some sonion 2389d . I think it should be wired like that right?
O interestingId wire each C separately with the center wired in line.
In this config, if the black squares are caps, the top driver is connected with a 2nd order crossover (12dB/oct), this might not be the most optimal unless the goal is to boost only the highest frequencies in a narrow rangeHi guys , i just got some sonion 2389d . I think it should be wired like that right?
12mm @3mmOD. You can use a series resistor before the cap to lower volume of each 2389 driver in the 2389D config. 5-10ohms usually helps.O interesting
12 mm tube or 14 mm ?
I tried 14 mm , and its seem to working. Lil bit loud
I’ve changed it. I just ran negative terminals separately with cap . Middle stays the same.In this config, if the black squares are caps, the top driver is connected with a 2nd order crossover (12dB/oct), this might not be the most optimal unless the goal is to boost only the highest frequencies in a narrow range
yeah, i noticed that even when you cut 2 mm off, it shows big difference.12mm @3mmOD. You can use a series resistor before the cap to lower volume of each 2389 driver in the 2389D config. 5-10ohms usually helps.
Lose the center tap - connect normally - this will give you more mids as your crossover will move an octave down. 2389 is already very low impedance, in parallel dual that impedance is halved further with center tap that impedance is halved once again, you are looking at 2.5 ohms at 500Hz if my quick math is correct.I’ve changed it. I just ran negative terminals separately with cap . Middle stays the same.
Also, i do feel i need lil more mid frequencys, Since i run 2389d with sonion 38 . well, lets see .
Do you think I should wire them separately?Lose the center tap - connect normally - this will give you more mids as your crossover will move an octave down. 2389 is already very low impedance, in parallel dual that impedance is halved further with center tap that impedance is halved once again, you are looking at 2.5 ohms at 500Hz if my quick math is correct.
Ive used 4.7uf or 10uf to one driver and 0.47 or 0.82 to the other. I also use like 5-10 ohms in series before the caps to even out the signal.Do you think I should wire them separately?
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph I don’t see difference.
I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
You need to do some calculations to understand where you are first, otherwise you are going in blind.Do you think I should wire them separately?
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph I don’t see difference.
I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .You need to do some calculations to understand where you are first, otherwise you are going in blind.
22uF 2389 (single, no center cap) gives you cut off fr at 830Hz with center tap that becomes roughly 1.6kHz ( in reality probably closer to 1kHz as the impedance rises and is not linear)
2.2uF 2389 (single, no center cap) would give you a cut off 4.2kHz and 1uF would be 6kHz cut off, half coil would move those higher (again not by straight factor of 2 due to non-linear impedance)
So if you have 38d1xj which doesn't really go above 400Hz you don't have enough frequency between 1.6kHz and 400Hz (2 octaves) which causes problems with midrange, wiring normally without center tap will improve the midrange situation a bit, but you probably need to go for 40uF cap to move the crossover to about 580Hz.
If you have a problem with overheating when soldering - 1. use heat-sink - clamps or vice 2. solder permanent wires to the drivers and simply switch components at the end of those wires, you don't have to redo the whole wiring when you are only changing capacitors.
I use tube diameter as my damper on a 38 w/ ferro fluid.Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?
Thanks you guys for tips .
thats what im about to do as wellI use tube diameter as my damper on a 38 w/ ferro fluid.
Lol, you think I'm doing any math haha, use online calculators, you just have to know impedance plot of the driver, which you could technically measure yourself.Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?
Thanks you guys for tips .
Yeah of course you can do that, just again be mindful of the crossover frequency - in that configuration 6-8kHz could be a sweet-spotWhat if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
what is the exact model of the driver you are using? 38AM007 or 38d1xj, there's considerable difference in response between standard version and version with AcupassAlso , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?